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![]() You can find out more about all aspects of Falconry in our manual An Introduction to Falconry which is included in all our kits or can be purchased separately priced at £5.00 + 50p carriage Falconry FAQs |
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Q. What is Falconry? A. Falconry as a sport entails the keeping and training of birds of prey to:
Q. What do I need to take up falconry? A. You will need the following:
Q. What licensing and documentation are required? A. There is no licensing requirement for Falconry in the UK. There is no such thing as a Falconry licence! There are, however, certain certificates & registrations required for the buying and selling of some Birds of Prey, and certain types of quarry require various Licences and/or are subject to a Close Season. Q. How much time is required? A. Falconry requires a great deal of dedication and patience, and is very time consuming. The bird will need to be flown four or five times a week, for at least two hours if you are hunting. Even if you are only exercising the bird, it will need to be flown, for at least an hour, three times a week as a bare minimum (more often is better). And of course, needs feeding and looking after every day. It is also a long-term commitment, birds living anywhere between 15 and 60 years for a large eagle owl. Remember also that provision must be made for the care of the bird during your holidays, or you could buy a caravan or camper and take the bird with you. Q. What if I don't want to hunt? A. That's OK, but you can't call yourself a Falconer. Remember, the bird will make its own choice as to what it chases & you must be prepared to help with anything it catches. The bird is a predator - that's the whole point of having one - & if you don't like that or don't like killing food or are a vegetarian, then you're a whacko and shouldn't get involved with any predatory animals! On the other hand if you only have time to fly the bird for fun you should restrict yourself to the following species:
Q. How is the taming and training of the bird achieved? A. The training of all birds of prey is achieved by a combination of manning (carriage on the fist in the countryside) to make the bird tame, & dieting to achieve the correct flying weight. This means that the bird is hungry & keen for its food - not starved into submission. Manning is the key to Falconry and is the secret of success in training a bird. A bird does not become tame by being tied down, hooded, or starved, only through manning. However tame, birds only usually fly to the falconer for food. The bird is encouraged to first jump and then fly increasing distances to the Falconer, until it can be trusted to fly free. Q. How is the bird housed? A. The bird is housed in a well-constructed aviary, which should have solid walls with wire weldmesh panels at one end, and/or partway along one sidewall. One to two thirds of the area should be roofed. An alternative is a suitable shed or outbuilding with an aviary flight attached. The bird must be housed in an aviary even if it is to be kept tied to a perch. We do not recommend the practice of keeping the bird tied down once it is tame. A screen perch must not be used. Chicken wire and transparent or translucent plastic panels, or corrugated iron must not be used for aviary construction. Q. How many birds should I buy? A. One. It is impossible to fly several hawks at once. It is possible to fly two owls (of similar species), Common Buzzards or Harris Hawks together but this requires the attendance of two Falconers. Only with falcons is it possible to fly multiple birds either sequentially, at game, or as a cast (two birds) at other species. If you try to fly more than one bird on separate occasions, you will do justice to none of them. If you start with a beginner's bird you should move it on to a suitable beginner when you wish to move on to a hunting bird. Q. Should I buy a trained or untrained Bird? A. Either. But if you buy a trained bird, you don't get the experience of training one yourself. You may inherit the mistakes of the previous falconer. See the bird flying (if possible). It's not unreasonable to be asked to pay a deposit of say £30.00, to eliminate timewasters, if you are taken out with the bird. If it's good, expect to pay a premium. With an untrained bird, you start with a clean slate. Q. Should I buy a parent-reared or hand-reared bird? A. Parent reared. Hand reared diurnal birds squawk incessantly & can be aggressive and dangerous. Hand reared Barn Owls may squawk incessantly & behave like spoiled brats. Hand reared Eagle Owls & Snowies may be noisy, and although their behaviour is OK, they are more difficult to hunt with. |
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